hooded eyes

Hooded eyes have skin that folds over part of the mobile lid or crease. Because some color may disappear when the eyes are open, placement is often easier when you check the look while facing forward instead of relying only on the closed eyelid.

A simple approach to visible crease definition

  1. Apply a thin, even base across the lid and make sure it has not gathered in the fold.
  2. Look straight ahead with your brow relaxed.
  3. Place a small amount of transition color where you want it to remain visible above the natural fold.
  4. Keep the deepest color toward the outer area and blend inward with light pressure.
  5. Open and close the eye as you work, checking the result from a normal viewing position.
  6. Build in thin layers instead of applying one heavy layer.

Brushes that help with controlled placement

The EASY CREASE defining brush is shaped to guide powder eyeshadow through the crease area. The LITTLE LINES eyeliner/brow brush can add soft definition near the lash line or outer corner. Use the UNDER-ALL-OVER brush for lid color and targeted base or concealer.

Common adjustments

  • Color disappears when the eye opens: Check placement facing forward and move only the softened edge slightly higher.
  • The outer eye looks heavy: Use less product, keep the outer boundary controlled, and blend inward.
  • The crease looks harsh: Reduce pressure and build with smaller amounts of powder.
  • Liner takes over the lid: Keep it close to the lashes and begin with a thinner line.

Work with your individual eye shape

There is no single correct hooded-eye placement. Eye proportions, brow position, symmetry, and personal style vary. Use these steps as a starting point, then adjust the height, angle, and intensity until the result suits you.

Easy Crease Tutorial

Tutorial Instructions

For this look, start by applying your transition color on the top of the Easy Crease brush, about halfway down the bristles. Place into the crease, where you want the most color. Holding the brush into the crease, sweep back and forth toward your nose until the desired effect has been achieved.

For the deep crease, place your desired color on the top of the brush, only about ¼ down the bristles. Follow the exact steps as the transition color.

For the liner and outside corner, I chose complimentary colors. Using the Little Lines brush, start at the outside corner, drag the shadow under the lashline toward the inner eye until satisfied. Extend the liner, at the same angle as the lower lashline, up to the bottom of the crease. Fill in the outside corner with the liner shadow.

When satisfied, add a second, lighter color, in the same color family and pull slightly across the lid from the outside corner.

For the lid highlight, place your highlight color on the bottom of the Easy Crease brush. Place the brush at the bottom of the crease. Press, wiggle and pull the brush toward your lashline. This will also blend your second, complimentary color.

Finish by taking the remaining shadow from the Easy Crease brush and placing it under your brow.